The ancients said, "ancient temples are hidden in the mountains.".
most monks are people who are separated from the world. They like to be quiet, suppress lust, and separate from the world. Therefore, they always built temples in the remote and desolate mountains. High mountains and deep valleys, or cliffs, are good places to build temples. Anyway, the more dangerous the place, the better. The more inconvenient the traffic, the better. Many faithful men and women who burn incense to worship Buddha and seek immortals and visit Taoism do not fear the high mountains and the long road. They climb mountains and mountains and come all the way to worship. This is not enough to show their piety to Buddha and God. With more people worshiping, the temple became famous and had aura. Therefore, the ancients said, "most of the famous mountain monks in the world.". Qingshuihe County is located in the north end of the Loess Plateau, surrounded by mountains, ravines, steep terrain, sparsely populated, it is an ideal place to build temples. Indeed, there have been many temples here, but many of them have been destroyed because of their age. Fulong temple is one of them. When I came to Qingshui River, I decided to visit Fulong temple.
we took a car to crawl on the mountain road of Qiqi. On both sides of the mountain road, strange peaks rose and strange rocks died. Some places are faced with the abyss, with a thousand cliffs. On the precipice, clusters of wild flowers, red or yellow, white or purple, are blooming, which is really colorful. The hillside in the distance is wooded and brambled. All of a sudden, a group of pheasants pass through the valley, making a cooing sound. The sound is heard in the empty valley, giving people a kind of ethereal, deep and quiet feeling. Just as the ancient poem says, "the more the cicadas make noise in the forest, the more the birds sing in the mountain."
after driving for more than 60 kilometers, the car came to shuimenta village, dantaizi township. Further on, it was the Yangchang trail. The car couldn't walk. The driver stopped the car on a threshing field beside the village. This so-called village is also three or five families. The cave where they live is located on the top of the mountain. These caves are made of mountain stones by local people. They are warm in winter and cool in summer. They are very comfortable to live in.
it's not far from Fulong temple, but it's hidden in that gully. Mr. Xing Yongsheng, who accompanied me, can't remember. At the edge of shuimenta village, we saw a peasant woman drawing water from a dry well. She is fetching water from a dry well to water the vegetable field. It is the first time that I have seen the dry well, which is one of the wonders of Qingshuihe County. The mountains are high and the ditches are deep. As the saying goes, "mountains are big and there are many stones. When you go out, climb the slope.". Because it was very difficult to draw water here, the common people invented the dry well. Dig a big pit on the ground similar to a jar, with a small mouth and a big stomach, and beat it with red clay around. Store rainwater for use in rainy summer. There are several such dry wells in every family. The number of dry wells is a sign of the poor and rich in the village. If a young man is engaged to marry a daughter-in-law, the woman should first inquire about the other party's dry wells. If there are three dry wells, it will prove that he is a wealthy family. If there is only one, the marriage will be possible. On the walls of villages in this area, you can often see such a big sign "improve the utilization rate of Tianlai water", which is written by the local government in order to call on the villagers to give full play to the role of dry wells.
although we asked the peasant woman about the location of Fulong temple, we still had a lot of trouble to find the gully.
when we climb up Nanshanling and look down, the scenery in the ditch is really charming. The valley is covered with green plants. A mountain stream flows westward. The spring at the bottom of the stream is jingling. Fulong temple is located on a hill beside the stream.
the Mountain Gate of the temple is askew, and the columns in the wall barely support the bricks on the vault. It seems that it may collapse at any time. There are several gaps in the wall around the temple, from which we enter the temple. The yard is covered with waste grass and a layer of sheep dung and eggs. I don't know whose sheep have been raised here.
the main hall in the temple faces south. The main hall is relatively well preserved, but the statue inside has disappeared. The remaining murals are colorful, and the images of mountains and rivers, people, birds and animals are vivid and clear. R / > there is a stone tablet under the eaves in front of the hall, which is intact and the inscription is very clear. The inscription on the stone tablet was written by Feng Guodong, a Juren in the Qianlong period of the Qing Dynasty. According to the inscriptions, Fulong temple was built in the early years of Qianlong. Later, it was expanded into a temple in 1761. Fulong temple is located in a dangerous and important place, facing the dangerous pass of the great wall and the talc fort. It is adjacent to shuimen cave in the East, the Yellow River in the west, the jaw whiskers of salon in the back, the side walls of stone ravines, and the mountains inside and outside are like flocks of oxen running to drink. Since ancient times, it has been said that Fulong lies on the tiger, so the temple is named Fulong temple. Fulong temple has one couplet for Guandi temple, one for Guanyin hall, three for Notre Dame temple, three for Longwang hall, three for Eastern and Western Zen rooms, two floors for Bell and drum, and one for Mountain Gate. In the early years of Guangxu, a stage was built on the left side of the mountain gate. Inside the temple are paved with bluestone slabs, pebble corridors, brick, tile and wood structures. It covers an area of more than 3500 square meters.
. There is a sutra building in the middle of the temple, on which a stone censer is placed. There is residual incense ash in the censer, and there is an unburned wax column on the wax platform. It seems that people come here every year to burn incense and pray for Buddha.
the stage in the south is simple and simple, and the roof of the stage is covered with wormwood. The stage is more than one person high, and the red paint on the pillars has been mottled off. On the gables of the stage are written the names of the actors and the titles of the plays when a certain Troupe performs here.
according to the records of Qingshuihe County annals, in the summer of 1935, a lightning strike burned the main hall and the Western Buddhist temple, forcing the monks to disperse, and then lost their management. On the eighth day of the fourth lunar month in 1964, a fire broke out due to the villagers' burning incense and praying, which made the temple walls decadent and scorched. Standing in the empty courtyard, looking at the crooked Mountain Gate and the hall, touching the Sutra building which has been erected for more than 200 years, I am full of imagination. The gods in the temple are gone, so are the monks. The empty temple has become a paradise for birds. Swallows build new nests under the eaves, pigeons fall and fly in groups on the top of the building, and rabbits appear around the temple.
in this inaccessible temple, I carefully searched for ancient information. Every brick and every grass can arouse my interest. I have been to many famous mountain dacha, which has already been opened up as a tourist attraction. The crowds of visitors are busy and bustling. There are guides, commentators and souvenirs on the stand. However, I feel that this dilapidated temple in the wilderness has more flavor and cultural content. In search, there is a kind of interest and surprise of exploration. I wander around the temple, hoping to meet a person, a local villager, to learn about the past and present situation of Fulong temple. But there was no one around.
through the thin haze, I found a donkey grazing on the hillside in the distance. I thought, even if there is animal husbandry, its owner must not be far away, so I climbed up the hillside. Halfway up the hill, I saw an old man gathering something among the thorns. The old man has a young face, a silver beard, and a pair of bright eyes under his white eyebrows, revealing a kind of immortal temperament.
I said hello to the old man and asked him how old he was. The old man stretched out his thumb and index finger and said that there were six in eighty. He saw that I was a stranger, so he put down his work and invited me to sit on the hillside and talk. The elder told me that according to the old people, the Fulong temple was built by a monk from Hengshan Mountain. The monk's name is "Huicong". He traveled here and found that there was a hidden dragon and a crouching tiger, so he took the chance to raise money and build a temple. It is said that the dry well we are using is taught by monk Huicong. After the completion of the temple, monk Huicong lived in the temple. He used a jar to pick up water from the spring in the valley every day. Water freezes in winter. He bought some big jars and buried them in the yard. In autumn, he stored the spring water in some big jars so that he could drink it in winter.
the local people often come to the temple to offer incense. When they found that his method was good, they buried altars in their own courtyard to store water. People with a large population use a lot of water, and a few big jars are far from enough. Monk Huicong tells them why not dig a jar like hole in the ground, then compact the wall, and then foam it with impermeable red clay to store rainwater in it in summer and autumn. So the dry well we see now is evolved from storing water in a buried jar. The elder recalled that when he was a child, Fulong temple was full of incense. Every year, there was a temple fair on the eighth day of April, and people from all directions came here to offer incense. During the temple fair, there will be several big plays, which are very lively. He said that the stream beside the temple was called Yang Jiachuan. In the Northern Song Dynasty, Yang LIULANG led Yang family generals to garrison the border. Later, the common people called this stream Yang Jiachuan.
it's almost dusk. I wave goodbye to the elderly. Looking back at Fulong temple in the dusk, the decadent temple looks more desolate in the setting sun. The gods of Fulong temple have long disappeared without a trace. Isn't this silver bearded elder a fairy? I saw the herbs collected on his back, stepped on the donkey's back, and soon disappeared on the winding mountain road.
Looking for Fulong Temple